Run to the Hills! – Summer exped 1

With the summer holidays beginning and building work at home a trip up north seemed a no brainer. I lived in Cumbria for many years and the opportunity to meld Lancaster and Yorkshire was ideal.

Gateway view

It began with something of a mystery tour, heading across into Westmorland. Post boxes, signs, black horses and wriggly tin abounded.

The Black Horse junction.

We were heading to the Friends meeting house at Brigflatts, this solace of calm was both a surprise and a place to reflect and begin my wind down to summer.

Sedbergh beckoned next and tight roads led up onto Winder, the reward was a pint in town. Many fond memories exist, one of our first family holidays were here.

Winder

The next day my friends had a swim date where the Roeburn meets Harterbeck in Wray. We met up at the tearoom, they swam and explored wriggly tin at the George and Dragon.

We then headed across to Hornby to wander to the river mouth. Plague wells, post boxes and stiles filled the landscape.

Hornby

Wednesday was a visit out west to Morecambe and a piece of architecture I had wanted to see for years.

The Midland Hotel

I explored the viaduct on the way home, little to know I would be paddling this canal later in the summer.

The Lancaster canal atop the Lune.

This was a great break, thanks to Z who helped inspire me and was punished with Carcassonne. I did a little to help too; working my passage …

Carcassonne, in the pub.

Trinity Dartmoor – reset post lockdown.

Dartmoor is a ninety minute drive from me and following the one hundred days of lockdown I have visited it three times. I find the idea of driving for a daily jaunt ignorant and would rather spread my carbon out, maximising the time there. With increased visitors I’ve avoided the weekend and often travel first thing Tuesdays and Thursdays returning at last light.

Claudia at Max’s diner always looks after me as I transit.

The Dartmoor 365 project was superb and the Facebook numbers have now swelled over 12 thousand. The framework it develops on completion gives a three dimensional patchwork of understanding. In-between each hit is a vista, a place to revisit in different conditions, a new experience awaiting discovery.

New Bridge

I needed a new project, a different challenge, a reason to the integrate old squares with new places. The concept of Ollis80 was born, sitting in the mess tent at Ten Tors; the AtoZ OS map book has 80 tors indicated in the index, I listed them, produced an Excel file and started ticking.

Tom on Yar Tor

Have completed the Dartmoor 365 project and also the Ten Tors 55 I had completed a good deal of the list previously; my legacy tors. After a start on Mel and Bel Tor [Bel is private and so was sighted, rather than surmounted] I hooked up with Tom and we wandered to Yar and Corndon. A good deal of the tors fit nicely into small groups either side of the road, and so are suitable as am and pm jaunts. The pubs had just opened.

The Rugglestone sits plumb centre

Holwell revealed much greater sections of the railway than I had visited before, Wind a very level approach and Bell a brush with television.

West of Haytor
Uneven opinions reported live to the masses

The next challenge is accommodation. Dartmoor is the only national park encouraging wild camping but with post lockdown silliness the vans had arrived. Bins were full to overflowing and the verges scorched or littered. There is a map of permitted locations, away from roads, small light tents carried in and moved on daily.

In the far east.

Bivouac works and my Land Rover even has a short platform but I am also very fortunate to have friends with houses near by. It is a shame that with lockdown restrictions the army expanded their use and even the quiet environment around Watern was disrupted by late night tramping from Sandhurst cadets.

The area around King and Birch Tor was next. Moretonhampstead is becoming my favourite base. Three groups had been completed and I limped home soon to return.

The corbels, a 365 site well worth revisiting.

My next visit included some off piste tors but also a hack across to King’s Tor from Hart and the fabulous coffin. The whole of Foggintor could occupy a day. Suddenly the preoccupation of mask, distance and daily briefings seemed a mile away.

Kings Tor

Glorious sunny tops called, roadside hacks and deeper pulls to gnarly granite outcrops. Hours dripped away, the summer burnt my skin.

Bell Tor

By the third visit the Ollis80 was almost cooked. I had three visits planned to complete the project. climbing from beside the Dartmoor Inn – Doe, Sharp and Hare beckoned.

Hare

The view from .456 down into the Tavy was stupendous and ahead lay Watern Oak, Fur Tor and Cut Hill. I returned via the Willsworthy range, often closed but interesting when open. I dropped to the Lyd, it had swelled and I needed to cross at the road.

Willsworthy

It reminded me that two of the 365 boxes required payment, the following day I visited Canonteign falls with Sue.

Victorian vandalism; redirecting the flow to create a folly.

My final day had two tors left to complete the list but I was keen to finish on a high. Beyond Chagford the road narrows and I explored off road parking spots before heading to Middle tor via Frenchbeer rock. Thornworthy revealed a lovely bivvy spot before finishing on Kestor. Thus is a fabulous high and the rock basins provide a mysterious thousand year old quandary – such as the Devil’s frying pan. The 365 link continued.

Thornworthy onto Fernworthy

My final day before the inevitable gallop of inset was to revisit Bridford, Heltor and Blackinstone, all from the 365 bible. I dipped into Bovey and returned, refreshed.

Dartmoor refreshes, revitalises. The granite scrubs your mind clean. The sharp piqued sunshine cuts cleanly, pairing away tired and exhausted memories. I am renewed and already ready for my next adventure.

Place, space or dialect?

I have oft argued that our sense of identity is determined through an Englishness, divided by place. The Human Geographer within me knows that space establishes all of our cultural norms but are the communities we grow up in, so unique, that culture out-powers nature?

Post Brexit; within the United Kingdom Brits search for another sense of identity. For the Scots a re-emergence of devolution is strong. The Northern Irish are searching for their Boris moment through Sinn Fein but the Welsh, despite re- emergence and talk of split are strengthening the cultural.

Wales as a nation with a unique language and national dress has always promoted its identity. The MPs daughter who accompanied me in bi-lingual lectures would not speak to the English boy but that feared dilution in Aberystwyth was only half-baked twix the sub- classification of the dialects of the language. We gave each arm nicknames, (gog and de) further identifying a quiet contempt.

The Scottish also identify their specific culture through dress, music and place name. The Irish through surname, accent and possibly political troubles.

My time Marathon running around the streets of HMS Caledonia forced me to identify those differences that created a unique culture; the silhouette of the forth bridges, deep fried mars bars or even 30 shillings.

The peripheral cycle expedition of the coast of Ireland was different in the north. (Northern) Irish whisky was as unique, as the road markings had a Britishness and even Derry had two forms. This was rammed home in my home town when the Corridor was bombed; a physical manifestation of maintaining difference.

Growing up near an estate with black faces was special. I felt different. My end of terrace house was better as we had the small triangular slab of grass at the side. The ‘live in’ boxes of Myrtle House in Snow Hill and acrid corridors were not to be desired and my first encounter with death was at a young age.

But where did the Bathonians culture actually lie? Was it as Somersetonian, Englander or as a British teenager? And then punk landed.

Somerset morphed to Avon and the bands and gigs established a pseudo identity half rockabilly, quarter Christian. And how did the Englishness within differ from the United Britishness without.

That question was answered through the Royal Navy and on joining I immediately understood my childhood cycle ride to the Somerset hamlet of Mark and need to explore.

Situated deep within the Somerset levels I regained the identity Bath had lost through tourism and a gradual shift to BaNEs and beyond.

People struggled to understand me; my students still do, and the quick-talking slow-thinking dialect of the levels had been established south of the river I transited daily.

As Jock and Paddy and Taff were pulled together; forced into the HMS Fisgard machine, the common language bound us into the teams – a division, the ship, a fleet.

Even NATO amalgamations of ships had a logo, an official photograph. We swapped between ships, mine was FGS Karlsruhe, trying in vain to establish our own brand of micro-culture.

It was at this juncture that language became the key bind. Parts of the ship shared similar names: the galley, heads or ‘forward’. Activities and meals were described in a similar way, the Dhobi, n#gg*rs in the snow was a meal, as were babies heads.

I then started to notice both the idiosyncrasies of the English but also the commonalities of regional groups, primarily through dialect. Without a national dress – the pin stripe suit? – or anthem, or flower we were a-cultural. Yes we have our conquest anthem ‘Jerusalem’ or our national rose but should it be white or red? Conversations after 15 years in Cumbria were often as divided as the pronoun citation of the word scone and division of cream and jam ‘down south’.

Returning South relatively recently – my heart is still as a northerner – I could really see the difference language and accent made. The cavers in the Skipton club from Colne and Nelson sounded so different that they were no longer English or Yorkshire. The divide across the border was marked through accent. One now runs a language school in Italy.

We all know the ‘Two Ronnies’ divisions into Scouse and Janner, Geordie and Brummy and whilst the European visitor was unable to understand and often differentiate this became, for me, the ultimate marque of Englishness.

The English Rose, Jane Seymour was identified recently as a favourite Bond Girl. She landed with a polished accent and set up home in ‘court’ on the outskirts of Bath but never sounded Bathonian.

Was her Middle English – revealing a true identity – far removed from the Bathonian drawl that the homogenised locals had declared as their English?

NEXT; does travel nurture or nature your soul?

The reconnect

With 2020 vision I entered this new decade with four or five resolutions. They never work and so I kept them close to my – hairy – chest.

Well, one month in I’m still going and feel that I may begin to have some confidence. Not in completing over a whole year but in making a little difference.

So here goes; no images yet but they will come.

Resolution 1 – be a better flexitarian. I was a vegetarian for some time but boredom and declining energy levels led to abandonment; oh, and bacon.

I am concerned in the negative environmental effects of veganuary but wanted to reduce meat input. For me, this is about the environment.

Meat uses up land. It produces protein inefficiently; and carbon. It also produces air miles, is over processed and can be unhealthy.

My solution? Fish and Chips on a Thursday / Friday and a fry up or Sunday lunch at the weekend. We have a great salad bar at work and most of what I fix myself (there’s little cooking going on!) is nut or pulse based. Yes, poached eggs or beans on toast count.

So have I seen a difference? Hell, yes. So much so that my long expected breakfast blog had re-emerged and J am even considering a ‘score your breakfast’ app. And a game ..,

I’ll check in next month; should my determination have continued.